Budgetbond wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 8:59 pmCheers guys,
Richard thanks v much for your input and knowledge, yeah that ties in, did you manage to fit a lot to your daughters mr2 it looks quite cramped in there to access drilling the inlet manifold?
So instead of accessing and breaking into the actual wiring loom then if you access the ecu in its 'box' can you just solder the wires to the pins coming out of it at its source can you?I
At the minute all I've got is a bundle of severed wires attached to a loom, I was thinking it wasn't even complete, some of the wires have been severed quite short. The loom doesn't seem quite the same either.
Am gonna put a bit of a disclaimer in here for anyone else who reads this.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME without any professional experience, knowledge mechanical and electrical know-how and a workshop or garage.
And the ability to fix the other things you break on your car as you're doing it!!!!
Anyway, almost every thing has been tricky I don't think I'd recommend a second-hand kit either unless you know what you're doing!!!
Anyway at least it's a start for me.
Today I've spent quite a lot of the day trying to thread the switch (cos it's intact on a length of wire thro the bulkhead even that's been a nightmare.
Yeah are the lambda wires just for oscilloscope and calibration are they or something like that?
And my 'missing ' ignition wire could be also attached to one of my injectors could it?
Rather than going onto the pins, leave some of the wire there, but as long as you match the right wires up it shouldn't matter. I've done it to injectors before, but some vehicles this is difficult due to space etc (the v8 disco wires are obscured by the upper manifold, and if I was doing that again now I'd look to interrupt the loom somewhere else).
You probabbly need to peel back the protective covering on the loom to find the red wire, it could be anywhere in there. But the likely path is the petrol injector cuts out of them all (you can take it from any ignition switched live, but since your going to petrol injector wiring it makes sense to take it from there in most cases).
The lambda sensors wires are what was used with the early systems (non-sequential) but there are better ways to calibrate sequential systems (and breaking into those wires is a pain usually anyway). Ideally you want to view fuel trims on petrol and gas under the same conditions and get the petrol trims to look the same on both fuels.
You might be better with a 90 degree end on a JIC type pipe, but you'd need the JIC type filler to go with it and a multivalve adaptor. JIC is a pain to work with as you need to get it to the right length, which takes a bit of practice/fiddling about to get it to sit nicely and work. You might find these to be an alternative option for what you have? https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts ... 5-to-8-mm/
You don't have the exact problem I had there as you don't have the plastic box to contend with though.
When you get a new loom there is a piece of heatshrink over the connector for the switch, that can make it easier to get it through the bulkhead though sometimes its easier than others.