LPG black cab

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Brian_H
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Re: LPG black cab

#21 Post by Brian_H » Tue Aug 10, 2021 8:59 pm

It does seem an odd choice to fit a Ford (some of the others use a GM engine) but I'd suspect it was to make them all the same to fit in with the CVRAS requirements easier (and to make conversion easier using less skilled labour and therefore cheaper possibly?) I also noted that it seems they did the same as Ford did with the original necam type conversions and used a modified head with harder seats?

Reading into it further suggests the engine has been detuned (probabbly to reduce overall power to protect the used gearbox I'd guess). I was wondering if its a custom ecu they are using rather than a standard slave system of any sort.

Tonyk - Is there an obd port on the vehicle and does it work if so? I take it this is a TX2/TX4 or similar your dealing with here? Any idea of the age of the original vehicle?

Tonyk
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Re: LPG black cab

#22 Post by Tonyk » Wed Aug 11, 2021 1:29 pm

Brian_H wrote:
Tue Aug 10, 2021 8:59 pm
It does seem an odd choice to fit a Ford (some of the others use a GM engine) but I'd suspect it was to make them all the same to fit in with the CVRAS requirements easier (and to make conversion easier using less skilled labour and therefore cheaper possibly?) I also noted that it seems they did the same as Ford did with the original necam type conversions and used a modified head with harder seats?

Reading into it further suggests the engine has been detuned (probabbly to reduce overall power to protect the used gearbox I'd guess). I was wondering if its a custom ecu they are using rather than a standard slave system of any sort.

Tonyk - Is there an obd port on the vehicle and does it work if so? I take it this is a TX2/TX4 or similar your dealing with here? Any idea of the age of the original vehicle?
it’s a 2004 Tx2 , as I understand it the original ECU/obd was removed and new tuned up one to replicate original output etc . Im hoping that after the 3 yr warranty ends I can (not sure how easy or expensive) replace ECU with another brand so it can be accessed by more local installers with the right software . Is it that simple though ? Maybe get a bit more ooomph out of it as well .🤔

Brian_H
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Location: Milton Keynes

Re: LPG black cab

#23 Post by Brian_H » Wed Aug 11, 2021 6:53 pm

Depends what they have done with it, if you can find either what software they are using or what ecu it is it may be possible to connect to it. Depends if its a normal ecu with available software or something special. The switch might give a clue of the manufacturer if its a more commonly available system.

Tonyk
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Re: LPG black cab

#24 Post by Tonyk » Wed Aug 11, 2021 7:27 pm

Brian_H wrote:
Wed Aug 11, 2021 6:53 pm
Depends what they have done with it, if you can find either what software they are using or what ecu it is it may be possible to connect to it. Depends if its a normal ecu with available software or something special. The switch might give a clue of the manufacturer if its a more commonly available system.
Sorry for another question but when you say “switch” ...what one do you mean ? Thanks for taking the time to reply by the way 👍

Brian_H
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Re: LPG black cab

#25 Post by Brian_H » Wed Aug 11, 2021 8:13 pm

The one with the fuel gauge and control for gas or petrol operation? Assuming you have one and it's not been done some other way?

Tonyk
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Re: LPG black cab

#26 Post by Tonyk » Thu Aug 12, 2021 7:50 pm

The switch is just a generic rocker switch which Tx2s have for windows , speakers etc and they have just filled a blank with a P and a G sticker .As for the led gas gauge it’s one with 8 green dots which always reads full whatever is in the tank 🤔 I’ve emailed the Aussies and await a reply on some info .

Brian_H
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Re: LPG black cab

#27 Post by Brian_H » Thu Aug 12, 2021 8:44 pm

It may be some sort of dedicated ecu they have either manufactured, or something like a megasquirt which they have setup for it. Your only going to find out if they either tell you, or you trace the wiring back to whatever ecu is there and see if you can identify it. The lack of a standard switch would suggest maybe it isn't a slave type system being used to me? Tracing wiring back from either the switch or diagnostic port should give you an answer. I also would think its likely the ecu is fairly close to the diagnostic port if it was a slave type system in use though it could have been extended of course.

The gauge on the common systems are usually at most 5 lights, 6 if you count the ones that flash the low led or keep it solid depending on the level left, it not working would suggest either its not wired up correctly, not setup correctly or broken. Its under warranty so you could ask them to fix it? If its the cylinder type shown in the photos on the links, then access to the gauge isn't too difficult, you could rule out broken by removing the gauge itself and checking resistance on it (you can adjust the gauge level with anything that will stick to a magnet on the back, a screwdriver for example) The normal type of gauge alters resistance between 0 and 90 ohms depending on the level, but others exist. Taking it out would tell you what type of gauge it is (model number should be printed on it somewhere).

Tonyk
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Re: LPG black cab

#28 Post by Tonyk » Fri Aug 13, 2021 7:14 pm

Brian_H wrote:
Thu Aug 12, 2021 8:44 pm
It may be some sort of dedicated ecu they have either manufactured, or something like a megasquirt which they have setup for it. Your only going to find out if they either tell you, or you trace the wiring back to whatever ecu is there and see if you can identify it. The lack of a standard switch would suggest maybe it isn't a slave type system being used to me? Tracing wiring back from either the switch or diagnostic port should give you an answer. I also would think its likely the ecu is fairly close to the diagnostic port if it was a slave type system in use though it could have been extended of course.

The gauge on the common systems are usually at most 5 lights, 6 if you count the ones that flash the low led or keep it solid depending on the level left, it not working would suggest either its not wired up correctly, not setup correctly or broken. Its under warranty so you could ask them to fix it? If its the cylinder type shown in the photos on the links, then access to the gauge isn't too difficult, you could rule out broken by removing the gauge itself and checking resistance on it (you can adjust the gauge level with anything that will stick to a magnet on the back, a screwdriver for example) The normal type of gauge alters resistance between 0 and 90 ohms depending on the level, but others exist. Taking it out would tell you what type of gauge it is (model number should be printed on it somewhere).
Thanks for your time Brian ,much appreciated . I will update you once I get some decent info from manufacturers.

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